Today we went to the Caritas Cubana offices. We met with the employees and learned about the programs that are supported by Caritas Cubana. The whole arrangement is a bit complex. CRS partners with Caritas Cubana and supports them monetarily. The money cannot come directly from the US because of the embargo. (More on that later.)
There are local Caritas offices, one in each of the 11 diocese. Therefore, there is a Caritas Habana office that administers programs in the Havana diocese.
Maritza Sanchez is the director of Caritas Cubana. We had quite a lengthy, frank discussion. Caritas Cubana began in 1991 when the Soviets withdrew aid to Cuba. That time was know as the “ Special Period” because conditions in the country were very bad. There was a shortage of food and medicine, blackouts where common and there was economic distress. It was described as a time when “there were the conditions of war but no war.”
In 1993 the first humanitarian aid from the US came to Cuba through CRS. At this time the first direct flights from the US to Cuba resumed although travel was severely restricted. Initially a lot of humanitarian goods-in-kind (GIK) were brought in by CRS. These days the amount of GIK is down. Caritas is more focused on the elderly, orphans and children at risk, especially those with Down’s Syndrome. While Caritas is affiliated with the Catholic Church in Cuba it does not discriminate. People that need help get it without regard to race or religion.
In 1996 there was a movement towards religious reform. The Catholic Church was suppressed after the 959 revolution but was never outlawed. In 1996 churches could act much more openly. Foreign priest came into Cuba, mostly from Latin America, Columbia and Mexico. In 1996 the Pope visited Cuba and that gave a legitimacy towards the practice of religion.
The government salaries do not pay a living wage so people find other ways to survive. Many get money from family and friends outside the country. Some are involved in illegal activities. Some steal what they can from their government jobs. As a result, the people develop a double morality. This is a condition that will be difficult to overcome if and when real economic reforms come to pass. Currently there are 11 million residents in Cuba and as many as 4 million could be working in the military, the police, as informants or otherwise working in “security” positions. The 4 million figure is highly debatable but it does hold true that a lot of people are part of the security sector.
In April the Communist Party held a conference where a lot of reforms were discussed but so far little has come of it. There is a powerful element of the party that doesn’t want things to change. The sense I got was that the Cuban people really don’t know what the future holds.
The Caritas Cuban office. Walking through the gate is Oreo, our driver. Jerry Stanton, our contact at CRS is on the right. There is a good view of Marie’s back.
Our afternoon walk through Central Havana:
I was in Cuba in 2005. Havana was a wreck at that time. Essentially, anything that is not directly involved with government operations or does not generate tourist dollars has deteriorated since the revolution in 1959. Well, nothing stays the same and Havana is not exactly the same as it was in 2005. However, it’s not much better. The Malecon (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Malec%C3%B3n,_Havana) is the esplanade between the ocean and an avenue with buildings on the other side. In some respects it is like Lake Shore Drive in Chicago except many of the building are decrepit. In 2005 almost all the building were decrepit. Now, there is renovation going on. There is some attempt to restore the Malecon to its former glory. It’s a minor facelift for the deterioration that is present in most of Havana.
This afternoon we decided to walk to the University of Havana and then take a walk through Central Havana to get a better sense of what Havana is really like.
Marie and in front of the steps to the University of Havana.
Here is a picture of what Central Havana looks like. And this:
These pictures don’t do justice to how broken down the building are.
While we were walking down a street a young punk came up behind Marie and snatched the gold chain from her neck. Fortunately, she reacted fast enough to grab the pendant, a ankh we purchased in Luxor, Egypt. The thief got away.
The incident made us realize that we have been much too complacent when we travel. We have been to some exotic places and have had very few problems. This was a wake-up call. We need to be more careful. Even though it was the middle of the day, walking through an area that experiences desperate poverty while exhibiting jewelry is not a wise thing, even if you are in a group. Marie was not hurt. There is the old saying, “if you can fix it with money it is not a problem.” From now on, more awareness.”
After the snatching of the chain we realized that we were almost broke and will have to sell a couple of our vehicles. However, we did find a great deal on a vintage car that can serve as our transportation in the future. Here’s a picture:
(“Se Vende” is Spanish for “For Sale”). We are excited for the car to arrive so we can have transportation between the city and the country house.
We had dinner at a nice restaurant whose claim to fame is that is was the basis for a movie called “Strawberries and Chocolate”. I need to get the movie from Netflix. The Cuban government has allowed some small entrepreneurial businesses to start-up. Those that deal in retail goods haven’t been very successful because a viable wholesale system does not exist. However, there are some successful restaurants in Cuba now which mean you can get a good meal.
Posters inside the restaurant. The name of the restaurant is La Guarida.
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