Ray's Travels

All good things must end. We had to check out of the Hotel Rambaugh and head for the airport. As we got to Tanzania the pilot did another one of his sightseeing tours. He dropped down to about 22,000 ft. as we approached Mt. Kilimanjaro so that we could get a perfect view of the summit which was above the cloud line. He circled so that passengers on both sides of the plane got a good look.

After landing at the Kilmanjaro Airport in Arusha, TZ we cleared immigration and then boarded small 12 passenger prop planes to take us to our lodge in the Serengeti Park. After a one hour trip on dirt roads we arrived at the hotel/lodge. The lodge is now owned by the Four Seasons although they didn’t build it. They bought it and refurbished it. It’s quite impressive. It has a rustic feel unlike a typical Four Seasons hotel. There is a lot of wood and stick beams. There are catwalks to get to the rooms. It is elegant but has a feel that fits with the environment. Being out in the middle of nowhere I can only imagine what it took to construct the place.

Dinner was preceded by a show of native dancers. Tomorrow we venture out on the safari to see the animals and tour the park.

The summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro as seen from 22,000 ft.

The view from our hotel room. Sometimes in the morning elephants will come to the pond to water.

We started off the day with a tour of Jaipur. Jaipur is known as the “Pink City” because in the old part of town all the building are painted the same pink terra cotta color. When India gained independence from Great Britain the maharajahs lost all political power and began to get taxed by the state. To survive, many of them turned their palaces into museums, hotels and places to hold events such as weddings. That produced revenue to allow them to hang on to their opulent palaces.

Back to the hotel for lunch. After lunch we took an optional tour to visit shops with jewelry and handcrafts. There were beautiful things for sale but in such cases one must resist the pressure to buy.

In the evening everything went over-the-top. There was a party for us that pulled out all the stops. There were dancers to greet us, there were camels, elephants and fireworks. The walkways were decorated with flower petals. Before dinner there was an elephant polo match. Three elephants on each side and one giant elephant for the referee. Guests got to ride the elephants and handle the polo mallets, sitting behind the elephant handler. A guest was the referee. Three games were played with the participants switching for each game. I rode in the third and last game. My competitive spirits surfaced and I scored two goals including the winner for our team.

The food and drink were generous and varied. It was a great party in every respect.

The “facade” in Jaipur (the Pink City). The tiny and obstructed windows were constructed so that the women of the royal family could watch parades and festivities without exposing their faces.

The sidewalk decorated with flower petals.

Camels dressed for the occasion.

Elephant polo.

The Hotel Rambagh at night.

A busy day today. We boarded our buses for the Siem Riep airport and got on the plane. The first destination was Agra, India. Agra is known for one thing, the Taj Mahal. We cleared immigration and boarded buses to get to the Taj Mahal. We got to the vicinity and then had to board electric buses. The government is trying to keep air pollution as low as possible to prevent deterioration of the site.

When we got to the Taj Mahal it was raining. Fortunately I had my Gore-Tex rain jacket and were were provided with umbrellas. We were able to get some nice pictures but the rain persisted. While we didn’t get as soaked as we did at Machu Piccu, our pants and shoes got soaked. The guides insisted that this was very unusual. It is suppose to be the dry season. I suppose we have the distinction of being part of small group of people that have seen the Taj Mahal in the rain. At least at Micchu Piccu we were warned that it was the rainy season. Today’s weather was totally unexpected.

After getting back to the buses we ran into a huge traffic jam because there was some religious even that caused a mob of people to gather in the street. Somehow we inched our way through to the airport. There was no overnight in Agra. We took off for Jaipur, India.

Jaipur is an interesting city. It was a planned city by a very wealthy and intelligent maharajah. While the old city is pretty much in tact, there is a lot of new building and it is very much a part of the modern world. It is one of the largest places for cutting and polishing of precious and semi-precious stone. It is also one of the largest places for call centers. When you get on the phone to tech support there is a good chance you are talking to someone in Jaipur.

We arrived at our hotel, the Hotel Rambagh. The hotel is totally over-the-top. It is no exaggeration to say that, by comparison, it’s make a Four Seasons hotel look like a Super 8. We were greeted in a celebratory fashion by dancers. The rooms are opulent. There are antique Oriental carpets, genuine antique wood furniture, chandeliers and intricate woodwork. The mirror frame near the entry was finely tooled silver and inlaid with mother of pearl. The bathrooms are marble from floor to ceiling. The vanity was adorned with an arch of finely inlaid mirror tiles and there were finely carved alabaster pillars. The hotel was the second home of the maharajah and has been converted to a hotel. It is on extensive grounds and the landscaping is impeccable.

The obligatory photo of the Taj Mahal. However this is somewhat unique in that it is taken from an angle where only two of the 4 minarets are visible.

Our room at the Hotel Rambagh.

The interior courtyard of the Hotel Rambagh.

The vanity inside the bathroom. Note the inlaid mirror tiles in the arch and the alabaster pillars.

Note: The Hotel Rambagh is one of the chain of Taj Hotels. It was at a Taj Hotel where the terrorist incident in Mumbai occurred.

We got an early breakfast and met our guide at about 8:00 am. The first stop today was the park in the center of the city that acts as a center point. It is not a large area but there is a hill and at the top is a pagoda. Buddhists come to worship and make offerings. It is a nice area and, as a high point, offers some nice views.

Then we were off to the Russian Market. If my information is correct it is not named that because there is anything particularly Russian about it, its because it is on Russia Ave. It is market somewhat typical of Asian markets where vendors have small booths in an enclosed area and sell everything from seafood and freshly butchered meat, to textiles, housewares, jewelry and gems.

After the market we went back to the hotel for lunch, packing and the van to the airport to catch our plane back to Siem Riep. Our whole side trip to Phnom Penh went without a single hitch.

In the evening we had a gala buffet dinner with a huge selection of different dishes. There was also a show of native dancers. It all made for a great scene at a beautiful hotel.

Tomorrow, off to India.

At the Russian Market.

Some of the guests (including Marie) with the native dancers.

We had a sensational buffet breakfast at the hotel and the guide picked us up at 7:45 am. First there was a brief stop at the Independence Monument then we went on to the Royal Palace. The Royal Palace is an extensive place but the two most dramatic edifices are the the Throne Hall and the Silver Pagoda.

The Throne Hall is not open to the public because the beloved leader Norodom Sihanouk died in October and the country is still officially in mourning. We were able to see the Silver Pagoda and the rest of the Royal Palace. The Silver Pagoda is called that because the entire floor is covered with about 5,000 silver tiles weighing about a pound each. The area where the tourists are allowed to walk is covered with rugs. Photographs are not allowed but I surreptitiously took a few.

We next went to the National Museum where there are about 5,000 artifacts from the pre-Ankgor, Ankgor and post Angkor eras. It’s not a huge museum and much of the statues and artifacts are based on the Buddhist a Hindu religions.

The afternoon was much more sobering. We first went to the Genocide Museum S21 which was a high school that the Khmer Rouge converted into a facility for interrogation, torture, imprisonment and sometimes execution. When Pol Pot “liberated” Cambodia at first the people were very celebratory. The mood quickly changed when the Khmer Rouge started evacuating the cities. He had a vision of creating a classless, agrarian society. First the Khmer Rouge killed their enemies. Then they killed intellectuals and other that were suspected of even minor transgressions. Then paranoia set in and they started killing each other. Overall, about 2 million were killed, about a 1/3rd of the population. It was not pretty seeing the museum. There were photographs of victims, barbed wire, small cells, tool of torture and other representations of what went on.

After that we drove out to the Killing Fields which is on the outskirts of Phnom Penh. At the site is a tower where the remains of about 9,000 people that were exhumed from mass graves have been organized and displayed in the memorial stupa. People from S21 were trucked out here to be executed and buried. The bodies were spared with DDT before burial to keep down the smell and to kill anyone who might still be alive. It’s hard to fathom the inhumanity.

We got back to the hotel and Marie crashed and slept through the night. The lecturer and me had dinner in the hotel.

The Independence Monument.

Proof we are still alive with the Silver Pagoda in the background.

The silver floor.

S21, a high school converted to a tool of Genocide by the Khmer Rouge.

The stupa at the Killing Fields.

What is inside the stupa.

This is not a very eventful day. We got our things together (with clean laundry), had breakfast and headed for the airport. We have a 7 1/2 flight to Siem Reap, Cambodia. That’s not where it ends for me and Marie. To my surprise, we are the only guests who chose to do the side trip to Phnom Penh instead of going to Angkor Wat. We are going with one of the lecturers on the trip so there are three of us. We have been to Angkor Wat but we have not been to Phnom Pen. We had a layover in Siem Reap and took a commercial flight to Phnom Penh.

When we arrived at the airport our guide was there to meet us and he and the driver helped with the baggage. Nice service. We are staying at the Hotel Le Royal which the guide says is the best hotel in Phnom Penh. It is an old hotel that has been renovated but they have kept the old touches. The light switches seem antique. There is a modern shower in the bathroom right next to the claw and ball iron tub. It’s nice. They did a good job. The service is exceptional. The Cambodians are beyond gracious.

Tomorrow the tour starts.

The entry to the Hotel Le Royal.

So far the trip has been amazing! I’ve had no regret signing on for it. When I first saw the cost of the trip it seemed expensive but it’s really not. The company has done a magnificent job attending to detail and providing more that we thought we would get. A few examples:

– Before the trip they gave everyone a new iPad with information about the expedition preloaded.

– The food and beverage has been of excellent quality and has been more than plentiful. The wines are of very good quality and there is no extra charge for alcoholic beverages on the plane or in the restaurants.

– They fill out the emigration and customs paperwork for you ahead of time.

– When you arrive in your hotel there is a small gift and about $10 in local currency for you.

– They provide pre-postage paid postcards for you in each new country.

– They take care of the baggage whenever possible and will have it in your room.

– They have provided each person with a new wheeley bag, backpack, universal electrical charger, flashlight and other things that might be needed.

– All events are paid for. For instance, when I did the dive at the Great Barrier Reef there was no extra cost even though it costs a lot more than snorkeling. Our side trip to Phnom Penh is at no extra cost even though we will have an extra flight and additional ground transportation and guides.

– They anticipate problems and prevent them rather than just dealing with them.

– The crew on the plane couldn’t be more friendly and accommodating. They are having fun too. There is a chef on the plane so the food is of restaurant quality. Today the head captain was going down the aisle pouring wine for the guests and conversing with them.

– I told you about the flybys. I commented to the head captain that they must burn a lot of fuel and he smiled and said “yes, but they let us do it.” So, it’s not like they are trying to cut corners on costs. They could have just taken the plane in for landing and no one would know the difference.

– Basically, they provide more than what they promise.

Yes, I know I’m paying for this. Still, I would rather pay and be surprised at the service than to pay less and be nickel-and-dimed at every turn. I have talked to other guests and we feel that this is a real bargain. I couldn’t have made these arrangements, scheduled these tours and found these hotels & guides on my own.

Looking forward to the next half of the trip!

We flew into Cairne, Australia yesterday but the hotel we are staying at is over an hour by bus north in the town of Port Douglas. It is mostly a resort town and is a place from which a lot of tours of the Reef originate. The hotel is very spacious. The rooms are like apartments with a kitchen, two bedrooms and, most important, a washer and dryer in each unit. Since we are at about the 1/2 way point, we were able to wash everything and reload our luggage.

Today was a highlight day, the Great Barrier Reef. We took the buses to the marina and boarded a large enclosed catamaran for a hour and a half ride out to the reef. Since I am prone to seasickness I had feared that we would be taking small boats out to the reef. Not the case. It was a nice smooth ride over calm seas. Out in the middle of somewhere we docked. There were a couple of semi-submersible boats. What that means is that there was an area for passengers that is below the water level. People sit two abreast and there are windows on both sides. The boat then goes out and rides around the reef and you can see the coral and the fish. Before long a school of dolphins started following our boat. They swam under and around the boat for most of the trip. The guide claimed that he had only seen dolphins twice in 6 months and the first time they swam by and were gone in 10 second. This school hung around with us.

The dolphins from the window of the semi-submersible boat.

We left the dock and anchored out in an area on top of the reef. This is where the serious fun, snorkeling and scuba began. Most of the people went snorkeling but there were three of us with diving experience who went for a real dive. I probably have not done a dive in about 10 years. Yes, I was a bit nervous. After such a layoff it took about 10-15 minutes to start to feel comfortable underwater. The dive ranged from about 30-50 ft. and was for 50 minutes. When I was diving frequently the dream was to dive the Great Barrier Reef. For awhile I thought I might never dive again. When this opportunity came about I had to take it. Cross one off the bucket list. After getting back on the boat we had lunch. Everybody was very energized from the experience whether is was diving or snorkeling A great time was had by all!

It was a nice boat ride back to the Port Douglas. For dinner there was no organized event. We were given the option of eating at the resort, ordering room service or going into town to eat at one of two restaurants. Each person (not couple) was given a $100 voucher. We went into town and had a fine dinner.

Samoa is mostly a launching pad on this trip as we will be here less than a day. We didn’t know until the last minute if the plane would make a stop in Tahiti for refueling. The 757 is a fine plane but the range is limited. Finally, based on winds and weight, the pilots determined that they could fly directly to Samoa without the stop. That saves us some time. The tanks got topped off at 34 tons of fuel and off we went.

Easter Island is artificially on Eastern Standard Time. Going to Samoa we not only get on more realistic time based on the sun but we also cross the International Date Line. We gained hours but lost a day on the calendar.

One of Samoa’s claims to fame is that it is where Robert Louis Stevenson spent the last 4 1/2 years of his life and wrote 13 books. This morning we visited his home. It was nothing magnificent but it was interesting. Stevenson is very revered in Samoa as there was mutual admiration.

In the afternoon it was back to the plane for a trip to Australia.

Our lovely guide at the Robert Louis Stevenson house.

Our destination is Cairne, Australia which is on the northeastern coast. As the pilots neared Cairne they said they would take site seeing of the Great Barrier Reef. They lowered the 757 to about 3,000 ft. and started twisting and turning and flying around the reef as if they were in a Cessna. I can’t imagine how much fuel they burned as the plane is not very efficient at that altitude. We got some magnificent views of the reef.

A view of a small part of the Great Barrier Reef from about 3,000 ft.

The plane for Samoa departed in the afternoon. That gave us time to do some additional site seeing. The most important visit was to a site overlooking the largest volcanic crater on the island. It is one of those views that gives you an idea of how unique this island is. The island is entirely a product of geologic activity. Natural forces made it into something, humans arrived, did some amazing things and then fouled their nest.

So how did anyone find a remote island like this? They were not stupid and weren’t just lucky. They were so in tuned with the ocean, the tides, the wave swells, the cloud formations, flotsam and the flight of the birds that when they set out for an unknown island the had a very good idea of where they were going. They didn’t need satellite pictures, compasses and GPS to find what they were looking for. At any given time they were most likely relying on at least 10 sources of sensory inputs to determine their direction.

The crater of the volcano. There is collected fresh water in the crater.

Our Luxury Liner, the “Explorer”.