Random thoughts on Argentina.

I’ve completed my second visit. It’s always good to get a second look at your first impression. Basically, I like the city. I could live there. The city has a lot of beauty and is not too noisy or congested. To explain, Rome is a very noisy city with the narrow streets and all of the scooter traffic. Ho Che Minh City and Hanoi are intriguing cities but the endless scooters and (particularly in Hanoi) the air pollution are a real problem. Athens would be a challenge. Cairo is just too congested and polluted. Paris, London and Amsterdam, yes I could probably live there.

Back to Buenos Aires, I like the place. The most off-putting thing was the thefts we experienced. Other than that, I found it to be a very accommodating city with nice, gracious people. We could not have been more warmly received by the people at the school where we were working.

So, a few very random observation in no particular order:

– Nice wine menus in the restaurants. The restaurant prices are not out of line with the price in the stores. Apparently, the way the game works is that you will order a low priced wine from the list and one of two things happen. One, they are out of that wine and you have to order something else. Two, they will bring you one bottle and if you order another they are out of it and you have to order a more expensive bottle. We went through this numerous time. Yet, wine, for your buzz is actually less expensive than beer.

– Argentinians do love their beef. Anecdote: We were at a very nice restaurant when we were visiting the falls. At the next table was a middle-aged couple. They ordered a beef platter that was brought to them on something resembling a small grill. There were no garnishment such as vegetables or potatoes. They ate the whole thing. Then, the waiter brought them another one! I like beef but too much is just too much. The beef in Argentina, to my taste, is a bit tougher that what we get in the USA but it is more flavorful. I’m sure this has to do with the way the cattle are raised. I’ll bet that the beef in Argentina is more natural and healthier, if that can be said about beef.

– Architecture in Buenos Aires is a mix. The modern buildings are not particularly impressive. However, amongst all of it are some really beautiful, architecturally unique older building. I think the good outweighs the bad.

– I’ve traveled in a number of “world” cities. To my mind, in Buenos Aires there was less fluency in English than in any of the others, including Southeast Asia. I don’t know why that is. It doesn’t mean that you can’t get by because you always can. This is not to be construed as judgmental. It is a simple observation.

– Now I have to cause trouble but still; The eye candy for a heterosexual man can’t be beat in any other place I have been to. Tight, low cut tops are the norm. Cleavage rules! It’s not as if the faces are the most beautiful or the hips might be a bit wide. Nevertheless, in nice weather the women really strut their stuff. You can’t walk ten feet without seeing something eye catching. What a place!

– For Argentinians the cheek kiss is the norm. I’d never kissed a nun until I visited Argentina but now I’ve kissed a Mother Superior. We were really giving it to Percy (the Baptist minister) for having kissed a nun. The show of affection is a good thing. Nothing wrong with showing gratitude, friendship and acceptance.

– We did experience some of the poverty. The area where the school is located is not far from a shanty town. It appears that many of the residents of the shanty town are garbage collectors. The collectors go around with carts, scavage anything that is recyclable and eek out a living. Some of them have horse drawn carts. We cleaned out a storage shed at the school and put the stuff at the curb. The pickers came by and took the stuff away. In the richer, downtown areas you will see pickers going through the garbage. Along the highway going from the airport into the downtown area there is what looks to be a terrible slum. It is not a pretty advertisement for Buenos Aires.

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The slum.

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Argentina – Feb. 2012 – The Igauzu Falls.

This event will encompass 3 days. 2 of the three day were mostly travel. We flew to Igauzu because it would have been a 20 hour bus trip each way. That’s just too much for the limited time we have. We left Buenos Aires in the morning from the city airport, not the international airport. It was still a very busy airport but much closer to the center of BA. We arrived and checked into our hotel and did little more than hang out for the rest of the day.

The Igauzu Falls are considered one of the Natural Wonders of the World. Of course, designations like this are open to debate and but I would concur that the Igauzu Falls are spectacular. I don’t know, maybe Niagara had a higher vertical drop but the thing about Igauzu is the number of falls spread out over a massive area. Other than an aerial photo you cannot capture the number and magnitude of the falls. It is a huge river that is spread out and falls over a lot of cliffs. The falls are located on the border of Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay. You can take a boat trip where you can see all three countries. (We didn’t take that trip.)

It was a very spectacular experience. Yes, there were a lot of tourists from all over the world. The place is a huge cash cow for Argentina. At the end of our tour several of us elected to take a boat tour that would take us under the falls. We knew we were going to get wet but we didn’t really expect to get soaked as much as did. Still, it was worth it.

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Just a part of the Falls.

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Amazing!

All of this is from the Argentina side. Some say that the Brazil side is better.

In the afternoon we took a boat ride that took us right up to the falls. I knew we would get wet but I didn’t realize we would get soaked. Getting right up to the falls gives a feeling of the power. I’ll post some photos when I get them off of the waterproof camera.

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This guy has the best scam going in the park. There is large rock there and people drop coins onto it. Mr. Huge Catfish is raking it all in.

The boat trip to the lower edge of the falsl was designed to be awesome. Until you get close to the power of the water you can’t really appreciate it. I can remember when we visited Niagara Falls. From the Canadian side you can go under the falls through a cave. At one point the wall has been cut through so that you can see the falls from behind. The feeling of power of the water is overwhelming. Yes, we got soaked.

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A view of the falls from the boat on the lower river.

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Buenos Aires – Feb. 2012 – Day 11

Today was the last day of work on the school project. We were scheduled to work until 1:00 pm. The nuns had planned a barbecue for us at a site away from the school as an ending celebration. Of course, not everything on our list was completed but we left money behind so that our objectives could be completed with local labor. I spent most of the morning finishing and installing the shade canopy over the playground. Somehow, I became the lead guy on the task. Once again, this was one of those tasks where, when you complete the project you know enough about it to begin to start it. We rushed to get it installed and managed to finish by about 1:30 pm.

The bus took us to a compound that is owned by a private homeowner that lets the nuns use it if they need it. It was a really nice rural place. Not elaborate, but nice. Everything was waiting for us. We were about to experience something amazing.

In recent years there have been three times when I have been overwhelmed. Once was in Ethiopia when the villages turned out to thank us for the water projects. That was the most exotic. The second was in Laos when we had the Buddhist ceremony after working on the school. Today, the nuns arranged a totally overwhelming event of gratitude. It was amazing and humbling. They welcomed us, fed us, wined us an had a thank you ceremony that was sincere and profound. Also, the teachers, translators, cooks and other workers during the week were honored which was something they richly deserved. The outpouring of love, gratitude and affection was unexpected and almost breathtaking.

Numerous times we gathered for group pictures. Several of the participants spoke about what the experience meant to them. This event alone made the whole trip worthwhile.

Yes, we do these projects as tourists. Yet, we leave something permanent behind. Beyond the bricks and mortar and paint we leave some genuine interaction with cultures. An event like we experienced today is not something that a tour operator can contrive or that happens as a regular event. It’s not a theme park or a scripted show. It’s one and done, never to be recreated.

We finally boarded the bus to take us back to the hotel. As we were about ready to leave a nun came on the bus and said that they needed one more picture. We got off one at a time and it was like a Broadway stage call. They were applauding us individually like stars of a show. I’m not used to that but I will never forget it.

Following are some pictures.

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The place where we had the barbecue. That’s Sister Theresa, the Mother Superior.

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This man worked with us during the week. On the last day he wasn’t at the school. We found out that he was the barbeque chef. Oh, was it good!

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Two of our translators, Gabi and Dani. They are sisters. To us they are two of the most beautiful women in Argentine. Gabi and Dani, thank you for being who you are!

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A photo with the nuns. God bless all of you!

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Buenos Aires – Feb. 2012 – Day 10

Back to work today at the school. There was rain again so we pushed some of the water off the second story. Because it is a holiday the hired workers weren’t there. Therefore, we have suspended our masonry work. We cleaned up a lot of broken brick. The pieces will be used as a base under some concrete that needs to be put down in a small area of the playground.

We took up other tasks, one of which is the replacement of a mesh sun shade over about 1/2 the playground. We need more materials so a couple of us went to a big home supply store named EASY. It’s like a Home Depot. The store was big, nice and quite well stocked but I think the manager trained with the first Walmart manager. Getting through the checkout like was like getting a root canal.

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We shoveled the sand into the sand box and within 15 minutes our turtle friend arrived for an inspection.

Tonight we went to a well known Pizza restaurant that is a close walk from the hotel. It was one of those very busy, casual places. The name of the place is Pizzeria El Cuartito. I have to say, the pizza was great.

Meanwhile, although we weren’t there, the trip hit a low point. Beanie went to an Italian restaurant near our hotel with some others from the group. While there, a waiter stole her purse. He apparently was holding a towel, took the purse off the back of the chair and handed it off to someone outside. When it was noticed that it was missing the restaurant refused to call the police. Still, our people got the police involved. The restaurant had security cameras but of course they weren’t working at the time. Beanie lost some money and credit cards but fortunately her passport was not in the purse.

There is a special place in Hell for someone who would steal the purse from and 87 year old woman.

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Buenos Aires – Feb. 2012 – Day 9

It’s Sunday and a quiet off day. A lot of the shops are closed. We just did some walking around. We went up Florida Street but it was fairly quiet although the weather was nice.

We can’t get the holidays figured out. We are told that this is a holiday weekend. Monday and Tuesday are also holidays. Presumably this has to do with Carnival but Carnival is not hugely celebrated in Buenos Aires like it is in Rio or New Orleans.

Tomorrow it is back to work.

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There’s a most amazing tree in the Plaza San Martin. The thing is humungous. Look at the size of the branch to the left.

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The branch is so big they have propped it up with a pole.

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Now look at how this branch is growing away from the tree. The trunk is to the left.

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This is the view from our balcony. We can’t figure out what is going on in this place. The shutters are almost always closed. Occasionally a car with come in or out so there is activity. There are four or five cats running around. Note the security camera above the door. We just refer to it as the KGB Place.

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Buenos Aires – Feb. 2012 – Day 8

Saturday. No project work today. The group went on a boat tour of the delta area. Buenos Aires is at the confluence of two rivers. A lot of silt has formed a large delta. The delta has become a vacation area and somewhere that people have vacation homes. I guess it is something like the Cape Cod or Hamptons of Argentinians. It is interesting and in its own way beautiful. The homes or cottages are on small delta islands that are only accessible by boat. The tour was a different look at Buenos Aires.

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This was the vacation house of a former President of Argentina who loved the delta. They have encased it in glass to keep it from rotting. Maintenance is a constant challenge for homeowners. Seawalls have to be maintained and adverse weather can be a problem.

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Here is a grocery boat. Due to lack of roads or bridges the grocery store comes to you. It loads up make stops at houses to deliver provisions.

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Buenos Aires – Feb. 2012 – Beanie and Percy

We have two 87 year old participants in our group. One is a silver haired woman from Lexington, Kentucky named Beanie. She is full of life and a tireless worker. She is on the paint crew. There is no quit in this woman. She has visited some very exotic and difficult places like Iran and North Korea. She will go to places like that and only tell her lawyer and her travel agent because she doesn’t want to have her friends try to discourage her. Her secret to health and longevity is to drink some beer, have some wine at dinner and have scotch every evening.

The other is a Baptist minister from Iowa named Percy. He signs his name Perc. He is also a tireless worker. We were with him in Romania, Egypt and Vietnam. He didn’t go to Laos because he was moving into a retirement facility. Now he’s back with us. He is what a minister should be and the opposite of how an Iowa Baptist minister might be typecast. He is pious and nonjudgmental. His outlook on life is about loving and giving. He has been on something like 16 of these types of builds. Mike tells a story about Percy. When Mike was a group leader with Habitat for Humanity he roomed Percy with a guy from New York who was from New York and Jewish. When the guy found out he was rooming with a Baptist minister from Iowa he complained vociferously to Mike. They roomed together anyway. They ended up good friends and Percy eventually visited him in New York City.

Beanie and Percy give us all inspiration.

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Beanie is the silver haired woman in the blue shirt.

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Percy or Perc.

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Buenos Aires – Feb. 2012 – Day 7

Today is Friday so it is the last workday of the week. Due to the heavy rains last night there was a lot of water pooled on the roof on which we are doing our construction. Although it remains hot, it was overcast and there was a light breeze so working conditions were tolerable. Our crew continues to lay bricks. We are about to the point of having to get up on the scaffolds to continue.

When we arrived this morning the nuns had set out fresh pastries and fruit. During this morning’s break they saw my iPad and asked to see pictures. I showed them pictures from Cairo, Ethiopia, Cuba, the Congo and Laos. I think that if I hadn’t told them I had to get back to work I would have been there all day.

It was quiet at the school today because we ate lunch at their other facility, the larger school, that also has a soup kitchen that feeds some street people, kids and adults. The lunch there was not as elaborate as what we have had the rest of the week but it was good. There was chicken, a rice mix, vegetables and a special desert made by one of the nuns. We also toured the school and met with some of the teachers. It is obvious that the Mother Superior runs a tight ship.

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Our group in the courtyard of the secondary school.

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Look at this! This was prepared and set out for us at the end of the work day along with fruit and drinks.

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Buenos Aires – Feb. 2012 – Walmart

Slice of life.

We needed some supplies so we had the bus driver stop at a Walmart on the way back to the hotel. Yes, you heard me right, a Walmart.

We picked up stuff like a sledge hammer, brooms and brushes, paint brushes, beer, etc., etc.
The place was a madhouse. It took us over 1/2 hour to get through the checkout line. The checkout clerks were clueless. There was an item we had without a UPC code and instead of looking it up they refused to sell it to us. Sam Walton must be spinning in his grave.

The next day, after a long on a hot day some of us like a cold beer for the ride back to the hotel. There is another Walmart that must have just recently opened that is much closer to the building site. The driver stopped there. It was almost vacant. The difference between the two places was to the point of being weird. If you bring a purse or bag into the Walmart it will get locked in a bag that only the checkout clerk can open. Apparently, theft is part of the Argentinian culture.

I won’t post a picture of the Walmart because they look exactly the same as the ones in the USA.

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Buenos Aires – Feb. 2012 – Day 6

We caught a bit of a break. There is a storm blowing in. That means that the sky’s were mostly overcast and there was a bit of a breeze. I felt much more ,productive laying the bricks today. The sun wasn’t so oppressive. We just worked.

The project is massive and we can not get it all done. However, we have budgeted enough money to have all the walls constructed. The roof will take more money but the school will start to raise funds. If you would like to contribute let me know. Any and everything helps.

The outside wall has been pained blue. A white wall is an invitation for graffiti. We are making great progress. The outpouring of gratitude is very humbling. The community has started to get involved. There is a vision.

Lunch, once again . . . Today they served empanadas of four kinds and pizza along with the vegetables and fruit. Again, it is all fresh and homemade. It’s all light crust. The beef empanadas were particularly scrumptious. There were more people at lunch today than before. They set an extra table. The teachers made a point to stay for lunch. It is amazing to feel so welcomed. Again, this isn’t the point of the mission but it sure is motivating.

We got back to the hotel and the skies opened up. It was a classic summer thunderstorm. I guess the city needed a wash-down, just like New York does in the summer. I just hope that the storm passes so that we can resume our masonry work tomorrow. My back is feeling stronger.

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